iPhone 11 UWA Camera : Disturbing Discoveries

After just spending a day’s worth with the iPhone 11 Pro ultra wide angle camera, I’ve discovered a few things everyone should be aware of. I’m rather tired of Apple’s half-assed approach to everything photography related. This is not a whining of a 20-something reviewer. This is from someone who wasted months of his life to transform Apple’s incomplete, amateurish APIs to something suitable for professional photo apps, and wrote exposure calculation, image encoding/decoding/display and color space transformation code along the way.

To anyone reading this at Apple: I’m open to provide you with consultancy to help get your act together and make a truly pro-level camera device / API.

No RAW

Take a look on any JPG file from the ultra wide camera. You’ll see heavy smearing and exaggerated chromatic aberration as you approach the corners. These are telltale signs of distortion correction going on (I have quite a lot of experience in this since I wrote the world’s first wide angle converter real-time distortion correction code on iOS for the Mark II Artist’s Viewfinder six years ago).

Which means that the laws of physics still apply, and supports my suspicion that the ultra wide angle camera in fact has a pretty awful tiny lens, with huge amount of distortion. And Apple doesn’t want to advertise this, so rather turned RAW capture completely off for this camera. Why? Leica, Nikon, Panasonic all do software distortion correction for expensive lenses, and the photographer at least have the freedom to correct it or leave the distortion in place for artistic purposes. (That I would never buy a 5 grand lens that require distortion correction is a tale for another day.)

The professional approach would be to provide RAW capture, and include distortion correction data inside the DNG so that RAW converters could pick it up (with the WarpRectilinear opcode).

2-3 Stop Vignetting

iPhone 11 Pro Max ultra wide camera vignetting

Now seriously. When one does distortion correction, why vignetting correction isn’t in place is beyond me. The above shot is just a wall shot under daylight, and not something suitable for exact measurements. I might do it later on, but currently this is enough to illustrate how much vignetting the image suffers from.

Again, the professional approach would be to correct this in JPG images and live video stream (or even better, provide an API to be able to control the correction), and include the necessary correction data inside the DNG files (FixVignetteRadial opcode).

No Focusing

This camera has a fixed focus lens. Read: no focusing of any kind. With such an ultra wide lens, the lack of focusing ability is mostly disguised by huge depth of field. But don’t expect to use it for ultra wide closeups.

Conclusion

Anyone touting this camera as a professional grade, DSLR (or even medium format) contender must live in a reality distortion field, powered by a huge marketing budget. Over-processed Apple JPGs suck. They always sucked. Not having proper RAW capture on the ultra wide camera is a huge drawback of the iPhone 11 series, hindering their usability for professional image capture.

  ☕ ☕ ☕

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The EOS R Diary : RF 50mm f/1.2L USM

As I did mention in the first installment of this diary, one of my reasons to get an EOS R was the RF 50mm f/1.2L USM lens. You might have read in other reviews that it’s worth to buy an EOS R just to be able to use this lens. Well, this isn’t an exaggeration. On my subjective lens quality scale it scores great.

My subjective lens quality scale have eight levels: awful, weak, mediocre, decent, good, great, excellent, and exceptional. To put you in perspective, I consider the Zeiss Otus 1.4/28 and Rodenstock HR Digaron-S 100mm f/4 to be exceptional. The Zeiss Otus 1.4/55, the Zeiss Apo Sonnar 2/135 and Rodenstock HR Digaron-S 180mm f/5.6 are excellent. The Canon EF 400mm f/4 DO IS II USM and EF 500mm f/4L IS II USM scores great. And the Canon EF 35mm f/2 IS USM gets a good rating. Keep in mind that these are subjective ratings, and sometimes a lens moves from one class to another in my view. But generally everything at great or above have very good image quality and is a joy to use.

Compared to the Otus 1.4/55

The 50/1.2 is roughly as big, as heavy and almost as expensive (2000 vs 2700 EUR net) as the Otus 1.4/55 – one of my all time favorite lenses. Let’s first see why I think that the Otus is a better choice if you don’t need autofocus.

Must be careful with strong backlighting

Two things. Well, actually three. The first is that the 50/1.2 is rather susceptible to flare, while you can basically shoot into the Sun with the Otus with zero flaring. It was quite shocking to realize this after all those years spent with flare resistant Zeiss glass. So you have to be careful when shooting backlit scenes with the 50/1.2. But this explains the oversized lens hood…

The second is very strong vignetting. It is easily correctable in post-processing, though. But keep in mind that vignetting is visible even at f/8.

Last, and maybe most importantly, the 50/1.2 breathes like hell. This practically renders the lens unusable for near-to-far focus bracketing. In comparison, the Otus breathes way less, but still exhibits some image size change.

Focus breathing refers to the image size change when focusing distance changes. All lenses breathe by default – unless they are corrected for it. The 50/1.2 doesn’t seem to be corrected much.

Why Does One Want the 50/1.2?

Simply put, this is the finest 50mm autofocus lens I have ever used. Focus acquisition is quick, despite the motor has to move 340g of glass and metal around. But this snappiness is not a surprise since the the focusing motor is borrowed from the new 400 and 600mm super telephoto lenses. The only issue is that Dual Pixel AF systems are totally blind to horizontal detail, and you’ll have problems focusing on the edge between the ocean and the sky, for example.

Of course one wants an f/1.2 lens for bokeh. And the 50/1.2 will not disappoint here. Although depth of field is razor thin, and you’ll end up stopping down a bit. But in any case, out of focus areas are rendered in a creamy smooth way, with nice transition between sharp and unsharp. This reminds me how German glass renders, and not typical for Canon. Out of focus areas are also free from contamination (colored haze, chromatic aberration, etc).

Nice creamy bokeh

The image above was shot for my favorite confectionery, and shows not just the beautiful bokeh, but the high degree of freedom from aberrations (look at how the metal bowls are rendered, despite being shot through the side glass of the fridge and under spiky, cold fluorescent light).

This freedom from aberrations is what I want in a lens these days. This ensures a transparent, airy rendering of the scene. Just the way I see it.

Colorwise the 50/1.2 has bit warmer atmosphere than I would prefer (like the 500/4). I do prefer the colder images Zeiss glass produces. I sincerely hope that Canon will finally introduce some consistency into how its lenses render. The Zeisses I use are consistent, but Canons are all over the place. The 50/1.2 would be a good reference rendering style for future Canon lenses.

With that said, I do like the images from this lens. They look natural and are full of detail. And yes, we arrived to one of the prominent features of the 50/1.2 – its high resolving power. While the EOS R isn’t a very high resolution camera, the 50/1.2 is in the same league as the Otus 55 and HR Digaron-W 70 on this body. Image field also seems to be rather flat (unlike the Otus, and most Zeiss lenses, where you should be very careful with focus placement).

The following image is just a handheld shot, with no tripod and focusing at the center. It had to be corrected for vignetting, though. It was shot at f/8, as the EOS R is a medium resolution camera and you don’t have to worry about diffraction. Which makes the EOS R and 50/1.2 combination a very easy to shoot one.

Natural color and plenty of detail

Construction and Handling

It is a large lens. Thicker than the Otus 55 because of the focus motor. Thicker than it would be convenient even for my large hands. But you’ll get used to it. I did. And the lens hood is humongous… At least it’s a constant diameter design, so no extra space is needed for the hood in your bag.

Fortunately inner focusing is employed here, as I have severe aversion to protruding lens designs. But the front of the lens is not weather sealed, meaning that a 77mm protector is advised to be used is inclement weather conditions.

Speaking of inclement weather. My very first shot with the Otus happened on a cold November morning. My hand literally froze to the lens (and I was wearing a light glove). So the use of plastic as the exterior is very welcome on the 50/1.2.

As I did mention in my EOS R customization post, focus ring rotation behavior on my EOS R (ill-named as sensitivity in the menu) is linked to rotation degree, resulting in 360 degree focus ring rotation, which is quite nice for manual focusing. I still think that rotation speed sensitive behavior is useless.

It’s Almost Always in My Bag

When I shoot from a car or boat, and have capacity to carry a secondary bag, then the 50/1.2 and the EOS R comes with me. It was rather surprising, since the 5DS R and Otus combo is a much better one. Well, except that the R system is way easier to shoot, and reach for it when I have no inclination to set up a “proper” camera.

All in all, if you can live with its shortcomings, the Canon RF 50mm f/1.2L USM could be a very nice and high performance addition to a serious photographer’s toolkit.

  ☕ ☕ ☕

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EIZO CG279X – A Truly Superlative Monitor

I had been using an EIZO ColorEdge CG241W for the last eleven and a half years, and during that time grown to love and trust that monitor. Well, in fact also grown to not trust any other brand when it comes to high-end color correct displays (no, it’s not prejudice, it’s experience).

While the CG241W still works perfectly, my recent upgrade to the current (2019) 8-core MacBook Pro having 10-bit per component color capability was a good cause to get a new monitor.

I did think about going larger than 24″ for a while. But also didn’t want the super tiny pixels of a 31″ 4K display.

Here I have to note that Retina-style (high DPI) displays are totally unusable for photo editing – you simply can’t see what’s sharp and what’s not. Unfortunately the CG319X, having an even superior panel than the 279X, fell out because of its tiny pixels (at 149 PPI vs the 109 PPI of the 27″ size).

From EIZO’s current lineup two monitors matched my size/resolution criteria: the CG2730 and the CG279X (the latter replacing the CG277). The 2730 was quickly ruled out because it doesn’t support Gray Balance priority I’m used to with the CG241W. Plus the CG279X can be fed with a single USB-C cable (for both DisplayPort signal and upstream USB), which greatly reduces cable clutter on my desk (more on this in a later post).

The monitor arrived six days ago, and I’m still in awe. It is a very rare occasion to see me running out of (positive) superlatives when describing a device. This is because it is very rare to have a device that doesn’t exhibit even a tiny fault within a week.

The EIZO ColorEdge CG279X is such a device.

Setup

It is pretty straightforward: connect the cables, and install ColorNavigator 7. But since the monitor’s main market is HDR video editing, it has to be reconfigured for a better fit for photo editing and print proofing. The setting I’m referring to is called DUE Priority, which needs to be set to Uniformity (which is also the one recommended by EIZO). My unit arrived set to Brightness, so you at least need to check it before calibration.

Well, my only minor gripe with the monitor is that this setting isn’t trivial to access. You either have to go to the administration menu (hold the leftmost button and the power switch for two seconds when turning on the monitor) or use ColorNavigator. In the latter case you have to manually enable the Monitor option setting extension in the app’s preferences for the DUE Priority item to appear under the Monitor settings menu. Both are documented in the user manuals, so it’s worth reading them.

Calibration

My usual practice is to set the monitor to 80 cd/m2, D50, L* gamma (my complete workflow, even working spaces, revolves around L* gamma) and Gray Balance priority.

The CG279X calibrates beautifully, with the average deltaE 2000 being less than 0.5, and the highest deviation not being more that 2.

Note that this is a hardware calibrated device, so the calibration curves are stored in the monitor’s internal LUT. It’s worth mentioning that all monitors drift over time, so regular re-calibration is mandatory.

Calling any monitor that lacks hardware calibration abilities a professional device is pure marketing bullshit in my book (yes, I’m referring to Apple’s new Pro Display XDR, for example).

The CG279X removes another pain from my life: assembling the spectrophotometer for calibration. It has a built-in colorimeter for the job. It is so much easier to just fire up ColorNavigator and let it do everything without human intervention.

There’s even self-calibration ability: you can program the monitor to wake up in the middle of the night, sit for 30 minutes to warm up and do an automatic calibration. The only downside is that your display profile won’t be updated, so I prefer to do it the good old way.

10-bit per component color

Or 30-bit color, in Photoshop parlance. As I mentioned earlier, this was one of my excuses to get this beast. Please keep in mind that you need a cooperating graphics card, operating system and applications for proper 10-bit color. The Radeon Pro Vega 20 in my 15″ MacBook Pro supports it. macOS 10.14.5 supports it. The weakest link is application support.

At the time of writing, I get 10-bit color in Photoshop CC 2019 and Capture One 12.1. Maybe in earlier versions, and other apps, but these are what I’m using and can say anything about. Lightroom doesn’t handle 10-bit color. In Photoshop you should check whether 30-bit display is enabled (in Preferences > Performance… > Advanced Settings…), but Capture One automatically engages it.

Pricing – in different light

Retailing for around 1700 EUR net, it isn’t a cheap shot. But if you are only using the monitor for the five-year warranty period, that’s 0.93 EUR a day. My former CG241W did cost me about 0.33 EUR a day (during its 11.5 year service time). And this doesn’t include the resale value. So for less than the price of a coffee a day, you can get the best monitor money can buy for photo editing and print proofing. Think about it.

  ☕ ☕ ☕

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Canon EOS RP : My New Toy Camera

Previously held by the Canon EOS 100D (aka Rebel SL1), the toy camera is a special position in my photographic arsenal. The toy camera has to be small, light, relatively inexpensive, but simultaneously required to be a full featured camera, with at least decent image quality, suitable for a minimum of 30x45cm print size. And it must be a camera that’s a joy to shoot with.

The toy camera slots below my travel camera. I reach for it when even a lightweight travel system is too much. It’s always used in a no tripod, single lens configuration (I’ll refer to that single lens as the toy lens). It comes with me on short trips and sometimes on daily walks. When I anticipate good opportunities and want something significantly better than a smartphone camera.

For a very long time there weren’t any serious contenders for this position. But the RP took over quickly and effortlessly.

The EOS RP with the smallest and lightest “RF” lens: the EF 40mm f/2.8 STM on the EF-RF adapter

Originally I had been quite reluctant to get one, and honestly, I would completely ignore this camera if we hadn’t needed one for software development purposes. Then, as usual, I brought it with me on a few shoots, and the unexpected happened. I realized that:

The RP is an interface design masterpiece

Saint-Exupéry phrased what I consider one of the most important ideas every designer should internalize:

“Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.”

Being a perfectionist, I strive to live along this line. This is not just reflected in our apps, but we also constantly in the process of slimming down our daily lives, cutting the unnecessary. The unnecessary, which only bogs you down in the long run.

Being a perfectionist requires effort and courage. It’s much easier to litter a camera with tons of stuff (customizable buttons for example) fearing what some half-educated reviewer or user might say. The designer has to analyze what’s really needed, and be brave to leave the unnecessary out. All the while keeping an eye on important things, because taking too much away could seriously impair usability.

I leave it to the reader as an exercise to analyze contemporary camera designs and decide which ones are littered with an overly huge number of (mostly customizable) controls and which ones are practically useless because the designer went too far with removing stuff. Canon does it mostly right (that’s one of the reasons I still shoot Canon), with occasional bad moves (like the direct print button, Wi-Fi button and the M-Fn bar) that tend to die out quickly.

The RP is one quick control dial closer to perfection for its use case (light travel/all around camera) than the 100D was, and also one M-Fn bar closer than the R.

Higher end Canons have two control dials (the main dials and the quick control dial). Lower end (Rebel) Canons have one dial (the main dial) and a button to switch the dial between two modes. They also either have a joystick or a 4/8-way controller, but never both. Since the joystick and the n-way controller have pretty much equivalent functionality, I agree with this approach. Adding a joystick along an n-way controller just increases ambiguity, and I consider it a bad choice. Yet so many people whine about the absence of a joystick on the EOS R…

The RP inherited the extensive (but not over the top) pro level customization capabilities of the EOS R, so it was pretty easy to configure everything the way I like. No button or dial left unused, and no function I need left unassigned. It’s pretty much perfect. The only difference from the R’s configuration is the AF point selection button. On the R it cycles focusing modes, but on the RP this function isn’t assignable to the button. So I left it on default, meaning that the AF point selection button is the entry point for both focusing mode selection and live view zooming. A little more button presses, but still not a big deal, as they are both infrequently used functions.

Both the control layout and the body shape contribute to great ergonomics and comfort, outclassing the 6D Mark II easily. I’m not a fan of the combined quick control dial/n-way controller solution on the mid-range Canons, and the RP definitely feels to be in a league above the mid-range offerings.

Build quality

Strong plastic over a metal core (sensor chamber). It’s rigid enough where precision counts, and the plastic shell guarantees that your fingers will not freeze onto the camera on cold November dawns. It’s also not the squeaky plastic that you may be familiar with on the 5D Mark II or M50. This was a really pleasant surprise.

I suspect that this construction is more than enough to dissipate the heat generated by still capture. Video might be different. But as I mentioned numerous times, I don’t shoot video, and if I did, I would get a real, proper video camera. And not blame an otherwise great $1300 full frame still camera that it can’t cook my dinner and can’t record cinema-grade 4k footage for hours in the summer heat.

The shutter button was another surprise. I grown to hate clicky shutter buttons (featured on all entry level Canons). So when I pressed the shutter on the RP for the first time, I started smiling. Both the half and full press positions are detected with a Hall effect sensor (or similar), so there’s no clicky noise, just like on my 1/5/7 series cameras, and on the EOS R.

Not all is rosy though. You notice the first sign of cost cutting with the fold-out LCD. The hinge is rather wobbly, noticeably so even in the fully closed position. And lacking any sealing gaskets, the battery/card door is clicking. This is caused by the tiny play (0.2mm or so) in the door’s lock and the spring that pops the door open. I might get used to it.

What bothers me the most is the image quality on the back LCD. For some reason, the edges of characters and icons are not solid, but have a pixelated/jagged appearance. I did notice this on the M50 for the first time, and now on the RP. It only affects the back LCD, the viewfinder is fine. Moreover, the screen looks gorgeous during firmware updates, so it’s not a hardware issue. Whether its just a marketing tactic to make the camera look and feel cheaper, or have a real technological reason behind it (some sort of power saving and/or heat dissipation technique) is unknown at this point. I’m not an expert in LCD drivers, so if anyone have a clue, please let me know.

Battery life

Well, power saving techniques are a question of life and death when you have a large sensor and a tiny battery. The RP performs a tad better than the M50, with a considerably larger sensor and a fractionally larger battery.

Eco mode is highly recommended, though. I did a few 4-hour sessions, with Eco mode on, and the battery indicator after 200-250 frames still reported full (meaning it was more than 50%) in each session. I did recharge the battery after each session. Nevertheless, I consider a second battery a must.

To be continued…

I had a pessimistic point of view when I started working with the camera. But the RP managed to get more attention and love. The transition happened after opening a few files in Photoshop, and seeing what this tiny little thing is capable of. For less than $1500 (including the EF 40mm f/2.8 pancake).

I know that the sensor is from the 6D Mark II (with slightly modified microlenses), the LCD is shared with several models, and the viewfinder is the same as the M50’s, but still, it’s hard to believe that Canon makes any direct profit on this camera. I sincerely hope it does.

In the right hands the RP is significantly more capable than the price, the spec sheet, a few reviews, and the cat & dog (not to mention New Orleans cemetery) pictures on some online outlets would suggest.

As soon as Capture One starts supporting the RP I will be in a position to comment on image quality of the toy camera + toy lens system, which I’m sure most of you are interested in. I did a few comparisons with Adobe Camera Raw converted files, and they look roughly as one would expect. Day and night better than what the 100D (and even the much newer M50 + EF-M 22/2 combo) produced, but far from what you get with an 5DS R + Zeiss/Rodenstock combination.

Fun tip: downsized to 6.5 megapixels (1/4 size), you get gorgeous, lively images…

I would not buy the RP as a serious main camera. And it’s totally unsuitable for sports/action/birding. There are much better options for those. But as a take everywhere and enjoy playing with camera, whose images can print nicely at 40x60cm, it’s absolutely great. Assuming that you pair it with appropriate lenses. But that’s a topic of another discussion.